Fashion Prism.
On the occasion of the 45th anniversary of the friendship city relationship between Shanghai and Milan, the participation of East China Normal University and Shanghai University of Engineering Science in the “Talent to Talent 2024” event serves as a tribute to the profound friendship between the two cities, while looking forward to broader cooperation in the future.
The Shanghai fashion show, themed “Fashion Prism”, employs the multifaceted and refractive qualities of the prism to metaphorically represent the diverse fashion concepts showcased by the two institutions. These encompass the Chinese philosophical concept of “round sky and square earth” (Tian Yuan Di Fang), the mathematical aesthetics of the golden ratio, reflections on contemporary issues such as social distance. The show presents a prismatic expression filled with color and variety by ingenious combinations of various elements, colors, and materials while at the same time deeply intertwining fashion and culture. It also reflects the “Shanghai Spirit” of open-mindedness, inclusiveness, cultural diversity, and pursuit of excellence.
Istituto Marangoni was founded in 1935 in Milan as ‘Istituto Artistico dell’Abbigliamento Marangoni’ and has been a top educational choice for creatives in the worlds of fashion, art and design for over 85 years now. With four generations of students from 5 continents, it was the springboard for over 45,000 luxury professionals, including Domenico Dolce, Alessandro Sartori, Paula Cademartori, Gilda Ambrosio, Julie de Libran and Nicola Brognano. Istituto Marangoni currently welcomes about 5,000 students from 107 different countries every year in its schools in the world capitals of fashion, art and design, including Milano (School of Fashion and School of Design), Firenze (School of Fashion & Art), Paris, London, Mumbai, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Miami and Dubai.
Istituto Marangoni Shanghai was established in 2013 with the joint support of the Italian and Shanghai municipal governments, marking the group’s first campus outside of Europe. It is located at The Roof, a development designed by French architect and Pritzker Architecture Prize laureate, Jean Nouvel. Since its establishment in 2013, marking the 40thanniversary of Sino-Italian diplomatic ties, the courses offered in Shanghai seamlessly integrate with its overseas campuses. This presents an alternative, efficient, and enriching higher education path in fashion for high school graduates and art major candidates, offering a high “educational value” experience in a shorter time frame.
Student Name: Ma Qiaolan
Capsule collection title: Light Rhapsody
Concept collection: In this world, much of what we perceive is not as it appears to the naked eye. Visual illusions often arise from the interplay of external factors, much like the way we perceive light as colourless and invisible when, in fact, it is full of colour. Sunlight, for example, is a spectrum of various monochromatic lights. Newton’s experiment with a prism revealed light’s hidden spectrum—red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue, and purple. A rainbow is nature’s way of unveiling this spectrum, with raindrops acting like countless tiny prisms, refracting and reflecting light to reveal its vibrant hues. In my collection, “light” serves as the central motif, with each piece capturing the visual wonders that nature offers us, particularly those hidden from our everyday sight. I have chosen taffeta as the primary fabric for this collection due to its unique ability to evoke the ethereal quality of clouds. Through extensive experimentation, I’ve combined light with this fabric to recreate the natural phenomenon of light passing through clouds, reflecting a spectrum of colours. One highlight of the collection is a gown made from rainbow fabric, paired with a taffeta coat infused with blue light. This ensemble symbolizes the breathtaking moment when a rainbow emerges from storm clouds, capturing the beauty of light penetrating through after a thunderstorm. Bold experimentation is the cornerstone of my approach to fashion design. In this collection, I’ve fused ready-to-wear garments with exaggerated silhouettes and integrated lighting elements to push the boundaries of conventional design. The result is a playful yet striking collection that marries “fun” with “beauty,” making those who wear these pieces feel both cool and radiant.
Student Name: Qian Tianhao
Capsule collection title: Symbiosis
Concept collection:In this collection, I delve into the concept of “parasitism” through radical structural experimentation and the fusion of diverse elements. My first inspiration comes from the idea of twin beings, like Venom from the Marvel universe, or mythical creatures with multiple heads and limbs—entities seemingly at war for control over a single body. These creatures, locked in a struggle for survival, are echoed in my designs through the merging of clothing structures, resulting in garments that feel as if they are a single, evolving organism. This might be expressed as an extra limb—an additional hand or leg—growing out of the fabric, symbolizing the parasitic relationship between form and function. Another profound influence on this collection is Marilyn Manson, a musician whose dark, controversial persona and affiliation with Satanism inspired me to explore themes of possession and inner darkness. Drawing on the imagery of Satan as a goat, I use materials like goat horns and sheepskin, alongside distressed fabrics, to create garments that appear tainted or corrupted, as if a dark force is emerging from within. Hand-stitched details further this idea, giving the sense that these clothes are not merely worn but are inhabited by something sinister and alive. The third inspiration stems from the two-headed snake, a rare and fascinating creature often doomed to self-destruction due to its internal conflict. This creature’s duality is reflected in a garment made from snakeskin, designed to be reversible and worn in multiple ways, symbolizing the snake’s bidirectional nature and the struggle for dominance within a shared body. This design challenges the traditional concept of clothing by offering multiple perspectives within a single piece. The final piece in the collection plays with the concept of visual distortion and trickery. I incorporate elements such as a false pocket to create an intentional “error,” making the garment appear as if something has gone wrong. This aligns with my ongoing exploration of destruction and deconstruction in fashion, where the imperfections become the focus rather than the flaw. This collection is a personal exploration, a crucial step on my path to becoming a “real” designer. It’s a process of combining elements that intrigue me—structures, forms, and ideas—to see what new possibilities emerge. These garments are not just clothing; they are bold expressions of imagination and creativity. They embody the dreams and visions of those who dare to imagine something beyond the ordinary—exactly what has been missing from my wardrobe.